Backstage at Ann Demeulemeester
Sébastien Meunier looked to ballet masterpiece ‘The Afternoon of Faun’ written by Vaslav Nijinsky and first performed in the city of Paris over 100 years ago, and Claude Debussy’s music as inspiration for his Autumn-Winter mens collection.
The influential Debussy soundtrack was also present here, accompanied by theatre inspired lighting which created a magical atmosphere inside the brutalist Oscar Niemeyer designed French Communist Party building. This, a perfect backdrop to a collection that was heavily informed by traditional dance costumes. Meunier designed leotards and sheer tops in tawny colours, layered with heavy shearling. Lace and rich velvets nod to the eroticism of the original play and its costumes, with beautifully crafted metallic leaves employed as belts and jewellery also pulling heavily from the source material.
“With this collection I wanted to questions new gender identities through the myth of the Faun, who is half-human, half animal. An untamed attitude mixed with the theatrality of Nijinsky’s performance. Contrast is at the heart of the House of Ann Demeulemeester’s DNA.”
The faun, half-human and half-goat was also referenced in the multicoloured leathers, this featured in both tall riding boots and more traditional derby shoes and notably mens heels emphasising the animal expression. The male body was also celebrated here with double-breasted jackets in woven and leather, exaggerating the shoulders before pulling sharply down to a dramatic narrow waist. Figure hugging Cigarette pants caused the wide-legged trousers also present in the collection to look even more exaggerated as they flowed with elegance on the mythical runway.
Words DJ Titchener
Special Thanks to Hanna at Pred PR Japan.