DR MARTENS X THE NORTH FACE PURPLE LABEL : A CONVERSATION WITH DARREN MCKOY
Joining forces for the third time, Dr. Martens and THE NORTH FACE Purple Label have renewed their ongoing collaboration with the introduction of the Sub Boot 101. The partnership — a match made in heaven for those who appreciate synergies of heritage and progressive design — takes as its blueprint the classic Dr. Martens 101 boot. The foundation has then been meticulously heat-sealed to ensure no water infiltration, while the upper is constructed from high quality and supple Buttersoft nubuck leather. Details such as hiker laces, ski hooks, and D-rings all speak the language of outdoor heritage, whilst coloured accents further nod to THE NORTH FACE Purple Label’s brand codes and offset the boot’s subdued grey tone. To mark the boot’s release, we sat down with Dr. Martens’ creative director, Darren Mckoy, to get their respective takes on the collaboration.
Can you contextualise Dr. Martens’ ongoing partnership with THE NORTH FACE Purple Label? For you, what makes this working collaboration special?
As a brand, THE NORTH FACE Purple Label holds a special place in my heart, I’ve always been a big fan. We’ve worked with them for many years and they’ve helped us innovate, push boundaries and enter new spaces through a seasonal lens. Partnering with such an iconic outdoor brand helps us build connectivity in a space that we are passionate about. Eiichiro Homma is a leader in the outdoor space — working closely with him has helped us create a new point of view and enhance the technical footwear we’ve been building. I’m really excited to see where the partnership goes next.
How does your latest project compare to past collaborative outings with THE NORTH FACE Purple Label?
The main difference this time has been the level of consistency we’ve got to, in terms of design ideation, technical attributes, building in future thinking through materialisation and taking the very best of both brands into new spaces. THE NORTH FACE Purple Label allow us to push the boundaries of what we do and you can see it in the products — the collaborations we’ve worked on have a lot of synergies and it’s all down to how we work together to conceptualise the product.
There are various functional elements that have been introduced to the traditional outlay of the 101 boot. What was the catalyst for coming up with the idea, and can you discuss the defining elements that complete the Sub Boot 101?
We always try to innovate our iconic Dr. Martens styles, and the Sub Boot base does just that with its waterproof moulded sole. The blend of the Sub Boot with the 101 gives us a new point of view on the classic product and the brand’s design ethos moving forward.
Can you give us some insight into the waterproof infused materials incorporated into the design?
The boots are really unique; they’ve got the new waterproof Sub Boot base construction combined with waterproof nubuck leather on the upper. The two parts together result in comfort, warmth and performance bringing Dr. Martens into a new space.
How does Sub Boot 101 reflect Dr. Martens current position in the marketplace?
Dr. Martens has always made seasonal footwear; we’ve got WinterGrip, WarmWear and DryWear which are our key winter dimension stories. The Sub Boot adds another level of storytelling to our winter dynamic and helps us further expand our position in the marketplace, offering more choice to consumers.
With the Dr. Martens x THE NORTH FACE Purple Label Sub Boot 101 exclusive to the Japanese market, can you describe the importance Japan has for Dr. Martens?
Japan as a market, creative centre and community has a massive influence on Dr. Martens — not just from a youth or subculture point of view, but also when we talk about craftsmanship. Our close ties to Japanese brands come from the unique connection between the UK and Japan. This collaboration gives us an elevated platform to tell a unique story to the Japanese consumer in winter.
Finally, can you talk about the process of working closely with Eiichiro on the project specifically?
I’ve personally worked with Eiichiro for 10 years, and through nanamica and THE NORTH FACE Purple Label we’ve fostered a really strong, almost telepathic creative relationship. We have mutual respect for both brands and a strong personal relationship which makes our working process very simple and authentic. The ideas flow really naturally.