HAVEN : AUTUMN/WINTER 2020 COLLECTION
Watching the growth and development of HAVEN over the years, has been a great pleasure. Brothers Arthur and Daniel Chmielewski, who come from a very humble background in Edmonton, have built a dynasty in Canada. First opening up shop in 2006 in Edmonton, HAVEN has now become a household name, not only across Canada with stores in Toronto and Vancouver, but all over the world, with their global reach unprecedented. The HAVEN brand has now extended beyond retail, both in store and online, with multiple collaborations and perhaps their proudest element, the HAVEN in house label which has grown and grown since its release a few years ago.
Okay, so we must start from the beginning of HAVEN. What was the initial concept and vision and how has it changed and evolved?
Arthur (A): Our initial concept for HAVEN was to bring the very best product from around the world and introduce it to Canada because in Edmonton, where we opened our first store, there wasn't really any product that we wanted. That evolved into our global e-commerce business and our physical stores in Vancouver and Toronto.
As the business continued to grow steadily, we were faced with a few challenges on how we wanted to continue to expand and evolve. We tried a few different avenues but got to the point where we didn’t really think there were any more brands out there that really stood out to us or shared similar values. What started as trying to represent the best brands from Japan and internationally, evolved into us trying to figure out our own perspective on what we really thought was good. It’s been over 14 years now, and through this process, we developed our own interpretation of what we think “good product” is. I think we’d always had a pretty strong point of view and were able to curate a mix of products that a lot of people found interesting and unique. We were bringing in all these brands, but we always focused on functional clothes with a high degree of craftsmanship that were predominantly coming out of Japan. At first, we relied heavily on telling other brand stories, and now we’re ready to tell ours.
It’s been 14 years now?
A: Yeah.
Daniel (D): We started back in 2006.
Why was Japanese product the focus of the beginning? Maybe not the focus, but why was it a strong point of HAVEN?
A: I think when we started the concept of the store, everything we really wanted to carry was coming from Japan. They were making products with amazing quality that was beyond anywhere else in the world. I think the Japanese have a certain way of looking at a product from a very functional and purposeful standpoint, with an incredibly high level of craftsmanship. I think it just stems from their culture in general, and their overall perspective on life. The Japanese brands really made sense to us; nothing else in the market really compared.
What was it like when you first started going to Japan?
A: Those early years were pretty crazy. We started the company fairly young; Dan was 25 and I was 23 when we first opened. Starting in Edmonton was really tough, as the demographic was small, but the slow pace of the store allowed us the time to carve out our niche and build our e-commerce infrastructure, which is still the backbone of the company.
After about 2 years, we finally started travelling to Japan and that is when the company really started gaining momentum. Season after season, we’d make new relationships and new brands would support us, and that slowly developed into us being known as a destination for many of these niche Japanese brands. In the early days, Dan would man the shop and I would fly out to Tokyo and try to make a case for our small store in Edmonton. It became easier as our reputation grew and we expanded to Vancouver and Toronto, but it took us some time to build relationships and many brands didn’t want to sell to us off the bat. What started as two trips a year, turned into four, then sometimes six to eight. It was non-stop for ten or twelve years. We’d sometimes do one day trips to Tokyo and back for a meeting and take turns when we were burnt out. Nonetheless, it was super fun because we were young, and in the process, we made a tonne of friends and business connections in Tokyo and around the world.
Japan changed the way we looked at retail, brands, business, and life in general. The inner workings of many of the companies are very strict, but they also understood the importance of building a true relationship with their customers. I think that is lost in a lot of the workings with other companies where it’s purely transactional. Half the time it didn’t even feel like work and we were really just doing something we enjoyed. Japan is a place I hold very dear, because we learned so much and met so many friends there. From many of those relationships, we developed a global network that all had some type of connection through Tokyo, even when we travelled to New York or Paris.
D: In the early days, we could only afford to fly Arthur out to Tokyo so my exposure to Japan came a couple years after we had some established relationships. I was always just the brother they knew from emails who paid the bills. But Arthur would always bring back stories of finding cool shops in the back streets of Harajuku or of amazing hole-in-the-wall restaurants and bars. He would always come home from those trips and implement some concept he got inspired by into our shops. Eventually, we grew to a point where we made enough money and had enough staff that we could go together on the trips. That’s when I got to experience first-hand what he was talking about. And they truly are on another level over there. The staff interact with you in a certain way; the payment transaction is handled a certain way; the process of trying clothes on is handled a certain way. Everything is very thought out and methodical far beyond what anybody was doing in North America.
Speaking of the early days, those were some memorable times, and I think that’s when we first met as well. Probably around 2009, 2010 or around then?
A: Yeah, I think it was around that time, 2009 or 2010. Good times!
D: I remember meeting you in Paris many years ago. All I remember is that you drank a lot of beer and so did I. So, we got along quite well (laughs).
So true (laughs)… So, why did you really want to create your own clothing? You mentioned before there was nothing else on the market, but you built something that was based on retail therefore curating and selecting other brands, which you still do. But then shifting into making your own product is a big step.
A: We always had ambitions to do our own product, but in the early stages, it was a bit difficult and we didn't want to rush into it. It took some time to build some infrastructure around us, develop the contacts and relationships, and to get the right factories, materials, and team to help us build the product to the level we wanted to. We have a good understanding of what works, but the process and systems that are needed are completely new. We have an amazing team in general, and within that, we have a small design team that has experience in performance outdoor, workwear, and contemporary design. We work as a collective with a common goal of building the best product we can.
D: There were a couple of reasons for starting the brand. The first was to give us a creative outlet. To me, there’s no point in having your own business if you can’t express yourself in some form. The second reason was that we were at a point in the company where we needed to keep growing to support our livelihoods and the livelihoods of our employees. Since we had every brand we wanted, we didn’t have many more avenues to continue to grow on the multi-brand side of things. But the potential for our own brand to fuel the future growth of the company was compelling.
Do you think that having built a strong name for yourselves in the industry was important in starting your own product? Like you said, it's been almost 15 years.
D: Having an established name for ourselves as a retailer has definitely made the process of building our own brand easier. We already had a customer base that was familiar with our shops and our point of view, so it was easier to build that trust.
So, going forward with your own brand, what's the goal from this point on?
A: I think the goal is continuing to build the HAVEN brand and growing the awareness globally. Build the best quality products that we can and show a new perspective on functional Canadian design. We would like to build an all-encompassing collection that represents our Canadian lifestyle and that of our team.
Can you talk a bit about the concept of the collection? What makes it so unique and what it is?
A: We've always championed the idea of dressing for function. Our brand is inspired by Canada's four seasons, and we're always thinking about our environment, surroundings, and the people around us. Canada is a very unique place where we experience a lot of extremes in weather conditions. We can go from sub-zero temperatures during Toronto winters to super-hot and humid in the summer; in Vancouver it’s raining six months out of the year. There are not very many places in the world with such a diverse range of weather. Japan faces some of these issues but not to the same extremes, and I think that is why our products have resonated very well with our Japanese customers. Canada, in general, has always been known to have a strong functional background in outdoor design with brands like Arc’teryx and Canada Goose. But those are outdoor focused brands, and we wanted to bring a new perspective to that and create something that's not purely from a performance outdoor angle but is meant for everyday use. Craftsmanship and quality are really important to us, and we want to make sure we make timeless clothing that can last you a long time.
D: Beyond the weather, there are geographical and cultural aspects that influence our design. In Vancouver, the pace of life is a bit more relaxed and people are more focused on recreation and outdoor activities because you have direct access to the Pacific Ocean, rain forests, and massive mountain ranges. Contrast that with Toronto where there’s more hustle and bustle, more nightlife and a slightly faster pace of life. We want our collection to excel, even when faced with all these variables.
You talk a lot about function, so how would you approach the balance between conceptual design and functional design? How do you approach both elements?
D: I don't think we're creating conceptual or avant-garde pieces, like, we're not creating products for someone to necessarily stand out; it’s for everyday wear. We’re not trying to reinvent the wheel. Arthur always says, “Oh, I could be standing beside a guy with a familiar silhouette, but then I could be wearing our version, and I know mine is going to perform to a higher degree because of the design; whether it's the fit or fabric,” but it's not necessarily conceptual in the way of, like, a runway or standing out just for standing out’s sake. It's purposeful clothing for our environment.
A: Yeah, the function really dictates the aesthetic, and we really look at the product and think about how we use it and how we could make it better in every regard. So, wherever we draw the inspiration from, whether it’s heritage Canadiana, military or a workwear reference, or whatever it could be, we try to elevate that product with the best materials and craftsmanship. We often think that iconic product design doesn’t need to necessarily be re-invented, just improved. Nothing is really there solely for decoration.
You have mentioned the importance of function and adapting to the Canadian weather, but are there any other influences on the brand?
A: We’re influenced by our upbringing, our multicultural background, and the diversity of Canada in general. What we make, all comes from our surroundings and what we did growing up. Not just our climate, but everything from outdoor sports, our Canadian lifestyle, travel, and the different subcultures we were involved with when growing up. We were into counter culture stuff like Hip Hop, bboying, skateboarding, snowboarding, graffiti and stuff like that. That’s really how we got into the clothing aspect of it in the first place, it was all about style. So we kind of evolved from that environment and from things that we were exposed to. The way that we actually build things, I think, comes from our father. He was a contractor and also a really talented artist and craftsman. He did everything, from architectural drafting and even coin engraving when we were younger, and was kind of a jack of all trades when it came to construction and manual labour. Being around that at an early age, essentially forced us into child labour (laughs) but it also gave us a strong work ethic and allowed us to learn how to build stuff from the ground up. We did lots of construction work and side jobs to put ourselves through University. We apply the process of construction to how we design as well; it’s much more like an industrial design approach to making clothing versus fashion design, starting from the foundation and building upwards from the initial concept. That upbringing kind of set the foundation for our work ethic as well. We actually built all of our stores ourselves with our dad’s help over the years which was a lot of hard work but, in the end, it’s really rewarding to see the progression and what you’re able to build with your own hands.
D: I agree with Arthur that growing up around construction projects was a big influence. I remember building the first shop in Edmonton with Arthur and my father. We had a timeline of about 5 months to build out the shop and start selling clothing and footwear that we were storing in our basement. In the end, it took us almost a year! We opened one week before Christmas. My dad always went overkill with all the construction details. He made sure everything had twice the number of fasteners, twice the soundproofing, and that every angle and surface had to be flush and level. Everything he made was built to last and this has definitely rubbed off on us. Whether we are building new stores, offices, or clothing, the concept of building things to last is important to us.
A. Yeah, our Grandpa was a master carpenter as well. I remember at an early age learning architectural and drafting plans for homes and how to draw them out. You don’t really think of all those things when you’re growing up, but they always tend to come full circle in some way.
D: I remember that too! While most kids were drawing comics or superheroes, we were drafting up architectural drawings for imaginary dream homes when we were like 7 or 8. To be fair though, we still drew comic books too.
How do you approach your collaborations? You guys have come out with quite a few collaborations recently, especially footwear, and then there was the Mountain Research project. How do these come about?
A: When we think about doing collaborations with other brands, the goal is to work with different iconic brands that are able to do something that we might not necessarily have access to on our own, or to bring in a different perspective. Footwear is a space that we're able to leverage the manufacturing of the other company and what they're really known for. We look at the product and bring our own interpretation to it and elevate the quality and materials, making the product more functional or utilitarian. All of these collaborations kind of happened through very organic relationships because we've worked with many of these companies over the years. For Mountain Research, those guys are just super-cool and humble, and we all just get along. We really enjoy being around people that we can connect with, so it was kind of a natural progression to work with them.
So how does the process of creating your own collection to doing a collaboration differ?
A: It's definitely much different when we're creating our own product because we can do anything we want and there really are no restrictions in our creative process. Whereas when working on a collaboration, it's a bit difficult because you have to balance the needs of both companies.
D: If we feel we can't really bring anything to the table, we just don't do it, and we have said no because in some companies, we are so restricted on what we can do. We also don't want to do something if we can do it on our own. If we take a step back and realize we're not able to put our spin or add anything meaningful to the product, then there's really no point in doing it.
Stepping back to talk about the Canadian influence and making the brand based around function and the Four Seasons of Canada, how do feel this concept correlate to people overseas outside of Canada?
D: In my opinion, Canada represents the extreme of every type of environment so we're automatically trying to build to that level. If someone in a less extreme environment uses it, that just means they just have better gear for that situation whether it’s cold or rain, etc.
What have been the greatest challenges for you have had to overcome since you started?
D: Pivoting HAVEN into being our brand focus, we've had to redefine our company goals, vision, and mission, and that's been really hard. Then, getting the team rallying around that vision of a brand is integral to us achieving our goals because we're just two people; we obviously can't do it alone. So, getting the right people on board and getting them in line with the new direction of the company has been pretty challenging.
I sympathize with that. It's very hard to find people who are like-minded but it is possible.
A: Yeah, the more you can express your vision to them — like get what's in your brain and download it into their brain — the less work you have to do explaining, and they tend to get it quicker and it makes for a smoother process.
I completely understand where you are coming from.
A: I think one thing that's always been challenging is trying to stay a step ahead and continuously push ourselves to progress. It’s a high-paced industry and the business side of it can often be draining. We’re always trying to evolve the creative end of things while also working on the business itself. So, trying to balance the two sides of your brain is always a challenge
D: At the end of the day, the big challenges are almost all on the business side, especially now with COVID-19 as well. There's a whole different paradigm that we're faced with. You have to have a solid business right now and a good understanding of the fundamentals to make it through this.
You guys both have a business background, right?
D: Yeah, we both graduated in finance out of University of Alberta. I think that knowledge we gained gave us a better understanding of things like accounting and finance. In the end, we can’t do what we enjoy if we can’t support it with the business which is our livelihood. We are continuously progressing the brand, but also learning all these different aspects of business and management as well.
Do you feel that your business background helps in the way you approach everything? Does it work against your creativity? Does it help with the man-management of your staff? As the company grows so to does the amount of staff you have.
A: When we started, it was very organic. It was just Daniel and I, and we'd slowly hire members to the team. So, each new person kind of had time to incubate. As you get bigger as a company, it becomes harder because when each new person comes on, they have a different approach or outlook on the company. So, trying to make sure that everybody has the same mindset, takes a bit more effort, patience and teaching.
D: It gets to the size where you can't have beers with everybody. There are just too many people. You'd be drinking all the time (laughs).
Let’s talk about the autumn/winter collection; what are the elements that stand out and make the collection so unique?
A: I think our autumn/winter 2020 is our strongest season for HAVEN and how we want it to evolve moving forward. The product has continued to progress, and this season we've really elevated the product to new heights. We’re working with some great partners for performance materials such as, Primaloft, Polartec, Etaproof, Gore-tex, and Cordura. We’re complementing those more technical materials with goose down parkas, and cashmere sweaters that are made in Japan, as well as chunky Canadian wool knits, that are handknit in British Columbia and are part our Canadian heritage.
D: The autumn/winter season in particular is kind of the definitive expression of our brand. It's built for the cold weather, so it really is where the brand shines, and the full functionality of the brand can be showcased. We're pretty excited as we’re able to really push the garments to higher quality levels. We've also got other interesting projects with long-time supporters, such as Converse, Vans, Viberg, and Engineered Garments. There is also a small eyewear offering that we worked on closely with Tommy O’Gara out in Sabae.
Going forward, what is your vision for the HAVEN brand?
D: I would love for the HAVEN name to become synonymous with long-lasting quality. So much so that you could keep your garments for years and even pass them down to younger generations. It's almost like creating a legacy product. You wouldn’t ever throw away a designer chair for example.
Something timeless, something that lasts…
D: Yeah, like you take it out of your storage and pass it on to your kid or something like that. I'd be proud if we could achieve something on that level. It's something very few companies achieve, but we would be proud if we could do that.
A: Yeah, early on you don’t really think about these things because everything is happening so fast. Now, our vision has evolved, and you have to think of the bigger picture. As we look towards the future, we would like to remain committed to high quality, functional, and innovative design. Through this, we hope to inspire others to think differently about the products they use and how they consume. We think that good design is at the core of everything we do and this has a ripple effect on how you go about everything you do in life. Well-designed products act as a tool and allow you to do things that you typically wouldn’t be able to do otherwise. We want to create the best products that last a lifetime as well. When you buy something from us, it works, and it becomes something that you hopefully can hold onto for a very long time. When you set out to do something like that, it’s not easy, but we want to be a company that will last for a hundred years, far beyond the two of us. So how do you do that? It’s a difficult thing, but you have to start with your philosophy, and continually ask yourself over and over, “What does the company stand for?”… you can’t lose sight of that. The culture of the company and our team is built on this creative spirit of design and innovation, but we try not to take things so seriously and try to enjoy the process. When that happens, the process becomes part of the work, it becomes enjoyable, and it’s the way you live instead of it just being a job. The culture has evolved and the people that have joined our team along the way are all part of that same journey.
Is your aim to build HAVEN internationally? Would you like to open stores in other cities around the world?
D: Yeah, that's the plan. Our goal is to expand the brand globally, but it will take some time. We’re just taking it slowly at this point and growing it organically, season by season. It’s tough but, in the end, it’s very rewarding. We enjoy what we’re doing and we’re able to work amongst an amazing team to make it all happen.
