NICHOLAS DALEY SS23: CALYPSO
Titled Calypso, Nicholas Daley’s SS23 collection expands on the Scottish Jamaican designer’s continual appreciation of his roots, drawing on the influence of Caribbean music legend and civil rights activist Harry Belafonte this time around.
The whole idea came to him after he saw a cherished memory of his grandma, namely, a signed headshot of Belafonte in black and white with an inscription reading: “To Dorothy, it was good seeing you, next time, let’s spend more time, love, Harry.” This sparked Daley to shed the spotlight on Belafonte’s celebrated record-breaking album Calypso and prolific musical output.
The iconic Calypso uniform, with high-waisted pants and open collar shirts, is a key part of the collection’s silhouettes. Indicating the free-flowing rhythm of the movement, The lapels and trousers have a bigger, wider cut, indicating free-flowing movement and rhythm, while the prints are reminiscent of tropical and Aloha shirts. Whereas waistcoats come in a utility and five-pocket forms, casually tailored Fonte blazers and matching shorts reshape the staples of men’s clothing.
Elsewhere, textiles such as durable cotton twills, needle cords and organic denims act as storytellers, serving as the canvas for intricately decorated fabrics. Bespoke silk fabrics feature jacquard floral patterns woven by British Stephen Walters, and waxed cotton cardigans and field jackets are elevated with Japan-made embroidery.
Calypso is a continuation of the Nicholas Daley’s ethos—one that revolves around community building, craftsmanship, and culture /
