X Marks The Spot
There’s a quote from Adrian Joffe, the CEO of Comme des Garçons, which I always think of when talking to someone about the concept of collaboration. And let’s be honest, as an industry we talk about collaborations a lot. Why? More about that later. Back to Joffe and his pearls of wisdom: “There’s no point to collaborate with another designer or artist unless there’s something that can be found in between,” he says. “For example, we don’t make swimwear, so we collaborated with Speedo, who [are] the best swimwear makers. So many collaborations these days are meaningless, therefore we try to find collaborators who can have an added value for both parties.”
This ethos, this way of thinking about a collaboration arguably sums up what constitutes a healthy brand partnership. A good collaboration brings out a new product or service that neither of the participating brands could have accomplished on their own. But it’s perhaps easier said than done. The rise of the collaboration is partly down to the fact that consumers today constantly want newness. They expect new releases and drops monthly, if not weekly, and these kinds of partnerships are a good way of helping to quench that thirst. Far too many brands see collaborations as a quick and easy way to create a buzz and fish for likes by whacking two logos on a T-shirt. But like with so many other things in life, it’s all about balance, it’s about putting quality over quantity.
The key, not just for collaborations but brand imagery in general, is honesty. Stay true to yourself and consumers will come to a brand and stay with them. There isn’t some magic formula for achieving perfect results. The best ones start when two brands or designers genuinely come together to create something new, and the ambition must be to further themselves using the knowledge and point of view of another creative force. As always, the consumer must benefit from the end result, or else it’s nothing more than a shallow marketing exercise. With more and more collaborations appearing on the market these days, we must ask more of what’s put out there. Small brands, big labels, or individual designers – it doesn’t matter because, as always, product is king.
Left _ Robyn Lynch
Right _ Martine Rose
Left _ P.A.M.
Right _ A Cold Wall*
//50//50//
Photography and artworks : George William Vicary
Direction, styling, text and interviews : David Hellqvist
The ‘X Marks the Spot’ story explores the concept of collaboration. It’s based on the idea of fusing opposites to create something new and exciting. At its best, a collab is a 50/50 partnership where both brands bring something to the table. Here we illustrate that by collaging and reworking a few select Tomorrow brands into an amalgamation of attitudes and aesthetics, showcasing the creative power of two brands working together. The accompanying text lays out Tomorrow’s vision for the future of collaboration and how a few of its brands view the collaborative process.
Left _ A-Cold-Wall
Right _ Martine Rose
Left _ Charles Jeffrey Loverboy
Right _ Robyn Lynch
Left _ Nemen
Right _ P.A.M.
The Future of Collaborations
To understand the concept of collabs from a designer’s point of view, we invited Robyn Lynch and Misha Hollenbach from P.A.M. to discuss what the Dos and Don’ts are when partnering up with other brands, their own experiences and how to futureproof collaborations.
What do you look for in a collaboration partner?
Robyn: I think, for me personally, the most important thing is it must make sense and have a personal connection, whether that’s through storytelling or aesthetically. Having a natural and true connection with a collaborating partner just leads to a much more enjoyable experience and exciting outcome.
Misha: Can I rephrase this? What are collaboration partners looking for in P.A.M.? The answer is energy, excitement and “unexpected creativity”. We believe in true collaboration, we want a dialogue, and we want the partner to bring their own skills and energy. After all it is a conversation, a working relationship. Ultimately, we want to go to places where we can’t go ourselves.
Can you think of one specific collab you’ve done that nailed all that, and why?
Robyn: I think the most special collaboration I did was the very first one which was with Rapha. This was my introduction into the world of collaborations and an insight into other companies’ archives. This was my first time trying a method of deconstructing deadstock and turning it into a new product. I produced a total of seven looks from donated deadstock. I hadn’t planned to sell the collection on a wholesale basis but when Browns reached out I had to take the opportunity. Rapha were so supportive and onboard with a further donation of old samples. It had a sell through of 96% within the first month so I think this will always be a special one for me.
Misha: We love the idea of developing something together with others. Our big collab wasn’t for a product but more for a collective energy. For ‘NO SHOW OFFICIAL’ we involved 50 creatives – like other brands, photographers, stylists – to make a ‘catwalk’ presentation (off-schedule and on the street outside OFR in the Marais) which evolved into such a wonderful celebration of humans, fashion, art and music.
What is it that you ultimately want to achieve with a collaboration?
Robyn: A great product at the end is a true achievement but I think broadening my knowledge and opening up to different companies and their inner workings is a really great take away when working with other brands.
What are some of the mistakes brands make when they collaborate?
Robyn: I think sometimes a collaboration can seem out of place and through forms of communication it can come across as forced or not natural. I think this is a mistake I would be weary of making.
Misha: They miss the opportunity to really go somewhere new, explore creativity and vision. Sometimes a new colorway just isn’t really interesting enough, even though it’s a great product.
Looking around you, at other brands, what other great collabs have you seen that stands out?
Robyn: I think one that personally stands out is Reebok and Cottweiler. I was an intern at the brand at this time and reflecting back on it now, I feel they were so ahead of their time. The level of detail in the pieces along with the artistic direction was incredible. The shoes from SS18 were my favourite. One of my favourite North Face collabs was with Japanese brand Hyke in 2018. The aesthetic for the whole collection and look book was beautiful
What do you say to someone arguing that there are too many collaborations and that that most of them empty marketing exercises?
Robyn: For younger brands, like myself, I think they bring so much value. Having access to resources of bigger companies is invaluable. Perhaps with bigger brands they can come across as more of a marketing exercise, but I think collaborations cannot all be painted with the same brush.
Misha: Maybe there are too many! Doing anything for the sake of marketing is not enough, this is the wrong attitude. Doing something amazing, doing something fun, doing something creative or innovative, that is exciting. We really should work and create collectively, it is really something wonderful, and something worth sharing and celebrating.
Do you collaborate outside fashion, as in with non-apparel, footwear, accessories brands?
Misha: We collaborate each season with artists such as Josh Smith, Korakrit Arunanondchai, Emma Kohlmann, Sonya Sombreuil. The Mike Kelley one was the most iconic collab we’ve done, working with one of my few life heroes to make an amazing talking toy, ‘Little Friend’. It was a wonderful experience. We also love working with food people like fermentation guru Adam James or food artist Lei Soto to make beautiful food landscapes. Oh, and then there’s our recent collab with cycling brand MAAP.
What is the future of collaboration? What excites you about collaborating tomorrow?
Robyn: I think collaborations are most exciting when they are unexpected and result in a product developed from a crossover of industries, bringing together two different inputs and outlooks.
Misha: We need to work together. Competition is great, but unity is also. The self, the individual needs to wane, the idea of the group, the community, the inclusion is really the future. Our P.A.M. motto is, ‘It’s always better with friends’.
