A-COLD-WALL* SS23
This season Samuel Ross, doctor of arts and founder of the menswear label A-COLD-WALL*, exhibited his work for the first time at Paris Fashion Week. Not in a traditional runway show but in a no-fuss, immersive installation setting, his modern, streamlined ready-to-wear looks seemed to float in the air across the brightly lit industrial-looking room, hung on wires from the windowed ceiling. It was all about the clothes, and their technical elements, tactile elements, sophisticated cuts, fine fabrics, and intricate colour palettes.
Moved by a series one-word mottos such as “SPATIAL”, “ENGINEER”, and “SYNCHRONICITY”, the SS23 collection built on the solid foundations of Ross’ architectural world of fashion design, amplifying on what’s already been put in place—which, in a nutshell, is material developments with craft as the central thematic. Bringing a human touch to his work, the pieces are patterned with experimental hand-washes, stains and paint applications. Elsewhere, a palette of grounding black, rusts and mineral hues brings a sophisticatedly muted feel, one that is zested up with injections of rust and blue.
As always with Ross, creation came out of necessity. ACW* garments serve a function and, this time around, they serve as a means of self-expression. Indeed, while utilitarian at its core, the pieces’ calculated informality allows space for unguarded spontaneity, with each piece carrying discreet details from cut-outs to asymmetric lines to porous surfaces. Meanwhile, strong lines and pronounced angles are reflected in both silhouettes and graphics throughout the collection that also introduced a first for the label: a collaborative boot with street-style favourite Timberland.
