Backstage at Sacai
Sacai has built an unmistakable brand DNA over the years, yet designer Chitose Abe has expressed that her formula for creating sought-after hybrids is based on pure intuition rather than a set formula. The notion of formula was echoed by her adoption of Einstein as an influence for the season.
As it turns out, the proponent of arguably the most famous of all formulas; E = mc2 was also a big believer in intuition, so where better to pull your inspiration from? Autumn Winter 20 heralded no seismic shits in direction from Sacai. Abe is not a huge risk-taker, instead, relying on a strong seasonal theme to help drive development in colour palette, layering and further experimentation with volume, all without completely changing the unmistakable look that has gained the brand such a loyal following.
There were the usual military-inspired half-breeds here which fans will rightly fawn over, as technical fabrics were expertly fused with heavy wools creating trench/overcoat hybrids and a myriad of bomber and parka style inflections for a distinctly mod feel. Leopard print (this season’s stand out fabric) made a return and was styled with a bright green puffer jacket, the aforementioned military hybrids, as well as appearing on dresses as prints. Punk infused tartan looks were accessorised with necklaces made up of signet rings and worn with chunky boots, and full shocking-pink looks drew a sharp contrast against the olive and forest greens that came before them.
Denim, fleece and tweed also felt right at home with this seasons offering, Abe playfully toyed with the utility of everyday wear and the distinct sense of fun the brand brings with their homogenised pieces. The latest in a wildly successful collaboration with Nike was even more bonkers than the last - a new Vaporwaffle which will ultimately see hoards of sneaker-heads queuing round the block for them on release day. The man behind this seasons inspiration made a more literal appearance with Arthur Sasse’s glorious tongue-out portrait gracing a t-shirt, which had attendees clamouring to get a snap of on their smartphones. Einstein poking fun at the fashion sect? What an apt way to draw proceedings to a close.
Photography Adam Katz Sinding
Words DJ Titchener