NICHOLAS DALEY: BLUE QUILT
As always with Nicholas Daley, it starts with storytelling. The designer puts a lot of thought into the narrative within his collections, and SS22 didn’t fail. This season, he explored the trans-Atlantic classical techniques of quilting practiced in the deep south and the development of black folk and blues both in the US and UK. Titled “Blue Quilt,” the collection paid homage to the greatest folk musicians the world has seen, past and present. As such, Nigerian-Irish artist Caleb Kunle — who mixes folk music with soul and jazz — featured in the campaign.
Drawing inspiration from NYC contemporary quilt artist Michael Thorpe, Daley linked up with UK-based quilt specialists to upcycle past season fabrics to create new reworked one-off styles. He’s also pursued his usual practice of working with Japanese artisans, embellishing his signature wide-leg pants, Aloha shirt, and relaxed-cut kimono with bespoke wax Roketsu pattern. Meanwhile, he’s chosen to honour Ireland’s rich textile history and developed with a Wexford weaver a series of linen patterns. The Scottish-based mill Halley Stevenson chipped yet again with their renowned waxed cottons, too. Ultimately, all of these celebrations of craftsmanship add greater texture and depth across the collection.
Deadstock military scarves, knitwear, and jersey were also part of the mix, all of which were hand-dyed with different techniques ranging from tie-dye to batik style. 70’s folk music-inspired artworks by illustrator Gaurab Thakali were applied on to a range of jerseys, too. And lastly, as a nod to some of the fold blues world’s iconic musicians, a newly developed tracksuit sported woven jacquards and striped rib details.
Altogether, the Blue Quilt collection continues to highlight Daley’s multidisciplinary approach, one that blend an ethos of community, craftsmanship, and culture, whilst always adding music as part of the main plot.
Now available to purchase online at nicholasdaley.net
