OAMC SPRING/SUMMER 2024 COLLECTON
A delicate feeling, expressed through fabric as well as motif. The exploration of masculinity, of archetypal menswear, refined, more sensual, lighter. The OAMC Spring/Summer 2024 collection achieves a delicate balance between the solidity of the silhouette and how it’s broken down by the use of fluid fabric, pushed shaping, and elegant visuals.
The life and work of Cy Twombly presented a strong influence. As a North American expat living in Italy, he developed his practice in Rome, surrounded by ancient and classic works. Constantly pushing his expression, he is regarded as one of the most influential artists of the past century, who constantly explored new ideas and concepts in technique, while incorporating ancient and mythological themes. The results are unquestionably modern, even while the act of creation was performed in such classical surroundings.
How an environment informs the creative process was central to Creative Director Luke Meier’s approach this season. Deeply personal, the process is of course unique to all individuals, however through wider consideration the environment cannot be discounted. Looking to Cy Twombly’s oeuvre, and the warmth and some of the emotion that perhaps his experience in Rome gave him, the collection explores a modern approach to silhouette, through a softened, and perhaps even self-conscious, lens of location.
Tailoring is generous, soft, and fluid, with strong zip pockets and press lines. Shirts and coats are cut from fluid viscose wools, printed with maps of Rome and Lexington, Virginia (Twombly’s hometown). Knitwear is graphic, but also light, built from drop-stitch mesh structures, and featuring printed patches, jacquards, or direct prints enhancing a hand-made feeling. Technical fabrics and cotton denim are given more delicate character through over-dye and abrasion techniques. Blurred floral prints embellish a soft padded blouson, as well as fluid shirting fabrics. Leather and coated cottons lend substantial shine.
Re:Work is also softened. Thematically aggressive military surplus pieces are deconstructed, re-shaped, and overdyed. A light lilac-grey quilted liner is extended with an added zipped panel and zip-off sleeves; a voluminous technical overcoat and crewneck are constructed from military parachutes and overdyed in delicate pink or mint green; an oversized tote bag, cut from quilted military blankets, is soft and welcoming.
Shoes are inflated, vulcanized, and powerful. Made from cotton canvas with natural rubber overlays, they ground the silhouette. Bags are rotund, either square or cylindrical, with giant color-matched link chains and aluminum printed labelling. Vachetta leather handles add functionality. Jewellery is sparse and deliberate: pins, either polished or half laquered to convey a feeling of aged plaster, as well as full color resin link chain necklaces are all featured. OAMC Optics are shown with all looks: custom shaped sunglasses made from vegetable-based acetates with polarized lenses, handmade in small batches in Sabae, Japan.
The feeling achieved is one that is elegant and delicate, against the backdrop of OAMC’s functional approach. Perhaps there is an allowance for Italy in the credits.
Photography : Ian Kenneth Bird
