INTERVIEW: GARBSTORE X PORTER YOSHIDA
It is fair to say that any select store that has been in business for over thirteen years must have a formula and know what they are doing, and Ian Paley’s Garbstore is the embodiment of that notion. Focusing on craft over trends and relationships with customer and brands alike over hype, they see opportunity in practical functionality. Which is why they have developed three new exclusive bags from scratch with Porter Yoshida, the undisputed king of Japanese utilitarianism.
We caught up with Ian to hear more about the project /
TNO: Hi Ian, thanks for chatting to us, can you tell us a little about the history between you guys and Porter Yoshida…?
Ian Paley: I have personally been carrying Porter bags since the mid ‘90s – for the last 25 years, I’d travel to Japan every 6 months and each trip would add a bag: from camera cases and suit-bags, to limited edition wallets and TANKER key holders. After all these years of use, every item is still useable and has lasted without the need for repair. In 2006, Porter Yoshida & Co. had a booth next to ours at a tradeshow in Vegas, we were able to start our relationship face-to-face from that point on and have been carrying their bags in the store for many years now.
So how did this collaboration come about?
The collaboration is something I have always wanted to do, but only as a completely new product, not just a change of fabric colour or print. We usually meet up in New York and Tokyo twice a year, and the topic of developing an original series of bags was discussed.
Can you dive deeper into the Porter styles you have worked on and why?
Our office has always been near to my home, and I have been using sacoche style bags a lot over the years to go between the two. However, harder items like laptops or hard drives do not sit that comfortably against the body, so we have taken the hugging nature and cross-body style of a large sacoche bag and have added more comfort, with the padded, triple layer bonded fabric Porter is known for, while keeping functionality at the core of the design.
How was the process and what are the key collaborative elements or details?
We designed the bags from scratch, and took the dimensions from the usage required for each bag. For example, the largest bag (DAY) will comfortably hold a laptop with enough room in the main compartment for other daily items such as a light jacket. The outer pockets have been sized to fit larger water bottles and notepads. We have positioned the inner pockets off-centre, so the bag doesn’t have to be fully opened to access valuables. The removable key chain doubles as an extended zip puller and can be placed on your most used zipper to aid frequent use. The brass “D” ring under the main shoulder strap has been positioned specifically to hold your sunglasses.
The HOUR bag is mid-sized and features the same detailing; the main compartment has been measured to fit a tablet, notebook or camera, with an outer pocket for a regular sized bottle. It can be worn comfortably while sitting in a café, without the need to place it on the floor. The smallest bag (MINUTE) has been designed to carry essentials, nipping quickly to the shops or on a night out, and can be easily worn under a jacket.
All bags have a custom space-dyed nylon liner which reflects our mainline collection’s overall theme of “The Space Inside”.
Is this project with Porter part of a future series of partnerships or is this a special one off?
As we design with function in mind, we haven’t considered that far ahead as the function needs to present itself first.
You yourself were a designer before eventually getting across to Retail. How has that design background influenced the way you have approached setting up Couverture & The Garbstore?
Designing our mainline Garbstore collection and our other in-house brands such as The English Difference, Drop Out Sports and Home Party (which are more product-led) helps enormously with the buying process, as we can easily see if the construction and textile quality match the value. It’s very interesting seeing it from both sides.
The store has a long affinity with Japanese culture and brands… what is it about Japan that connects with you and your consumers?
It’s the quality, the obsession with accurate detailing. I think our customers really appreciate quality over hype and Japan has always done this beautifully.
I read you worked for BBH back in the days… I interviewed Sir John Hegerty recently and we talked at length about how those Early Levi’s Ads were game changing… What experience / elements did you pick up working there that have stuck with you?
Yes a long time ago, I was very interested in the way that ideas are formed within these mega-agencies, teams of people working separately on the same campaigns. I enjoyed the practical element of advertising, coming from an apparel background and working with apparel clients; we were able to add a bit more understanding of real attributes or detailing that could be reflected in the communications for the product.
Thirteen years in retail at this level is no easy feat. And some great stores have come and gone in that time. What do you think has been the key difference in why Couverture & The Garbstore are still going strong today?
“Garbstore” obviously translates as a place that sells clothing. We have always put product first and have done what we have loved instead of following or chasing ever-changing trends. We are very fortunate to have an incredibly loyal customer base, and very strong relationships with all our designers, which we have maintained over many a long lunch!
Finally... what can we expect from you guys coming into the Autumn / Winter season?
We have some other exciting specials and collaborations in the pipeline, with brands and other retailers, as well as a smattering of new designers we are excited to introduce to the store…so watch this space!
