UNDERCOVERISM: NEOBOY

As with any sort of rule, somebody out there will inevitably dare to break it. In fashion UNDERCOVER’s Jun Takahashi does just that. His takes on Nike are steadily disrupting (or, depending on who you ask, broadening) the brand’s typical way of making trainers: the Overbreak’s got a sole unit that looks like either moon craters or its own living thing that outgrows the shoe itself, whereas the Daybreak sports an aerodynamic piece that bursts from the rear to infinity. But this isn’t surprising as actually, it echoes Takahashi’s maxim for UNDERCOVER, “We make noise not clothes.” And now that the designer is bringing back UNDERCOVERISM, yet again, the reintroduced men’s line doesn’t follow no norms /

UNDERCOVERISM’s disruptive nature may be discreet, but it remains very much rooted in how Takahashi created the Fall/Winter 21 collection dubbed “Neoboy”. In many ways, it’s deconstructed tailoring. From the dropped shoulders with slightly too-long sleeves, there’s a casual looseness to the clothes. Other intentional misdoings include the kurta’s pronounced side vents with raw-edged hems and the bomber jacket’s exposed seams that run from left to right and top to bottom.

Yet despite this apparent freedom that comes from having the guts to create as he sees fit, Takahashi’s new UNDERCOVERISM lineup binds together as a whole. Except for a shirt that’s red tartan, blazers, hoodies, chore coats and the other pieces are all monochromatically black or grey. 

Each look, too, is accessorised with some mad headpiece made by French artist Anne-Valerie Dupond that makes the models look like aristocrats from the Georgian era that didn’t get a trim nor moisturised in quite some centuries.

The Japanese brand’s strength lies, in part, in the perfection of its imperfection.

The collection is now available to buy on UNDERCOVER’s website and stores.